Bless

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BLESS
Celebrating Ten Years of Themelessness: N° 00 – N° 29

 
BLESS.
Celebrating Ten Years of Themelessness: N° 00 – N° 29

Desiree Heiss, Ines Kaag, Manuel Raeder (Eds.)
Texts by Thimo te Duits, Elein Fleiss, Nakako Hayashi, Stéphanie Moisdon, Ulf Poschardt, Pro qm, Adriano Sack, Barbara Steiner, Olivier Zahm
Interviews by Manuel Raeder with Nobuyoshi Tamura Shihan and by Jan Winkelmann with Bless

The now very sought-after, scarce, encyclopedic, ten-year survey monograph of Berlin’s famed BLESS. Sternberg Press have published two “catalogue raisonné” volumes documenting the oeuvre of Bless, this being the first, long out-of-print volume, designed by Manuel Raeder and published in 2006, documenting everything from their beginnings in the late 1990’s up until 2006.

Bless came to fame in the winter of ‘97/‘98, when the models of a Martin Margiela fashion show wore Bless wigs made out of fur. Heralded as one of fashion’s most innovative designers, the Paris and Berlin-based duo (Desiree Heiss and Ines Kaag) quickly refused to capitalize on one milieu. Constantly investigating the boundaries of style, Bless slides from fashion to beauty, interior decoration to art exhibition, collaboration with other brands to stylized advertising. Their production, which sits on the fine line between art object and design, high function and high fashion, is always unique and marked by the recycling and adaptation of unexpected items put to use in a totally new way. Objects such as customizable footwear, disposable T-shirts, chair covers, table mobiles, cable jewellery, and wallpapers, but also an “extended hotel service” range among the many products that have resulted from their manipulations of a garment or piece of furniture.

For author Barbara Steiner, “by addressing the fields of both fashion and art, including the overlapping zones, and once again confounding any attempt at classification, Bless reveals the contradictions and conflicts that underlie economic and artistic interests, and above all their reciprocal relationship. Ambiguity, contingency and instability become the constituents of a practice that is based on multiple focal points as a means of probing possibilities of external versus self-determination, commercial success versus critical reflection and incorporation versus resistance.”

Designed by Manuel Raeder, this fully illustrated book features for the first time the wide range of Bless’ activity and documents a unique mode of cultural production.

Bless have exhibited internationally at the 1st berlin biennale (1998/99), Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris (1999), Centre Pompidou (2000), Manifesta 4 (2002), Palais de Tokyo (2003), Moderna Museet, Stockholm (2004), Stedelijk Museum Bureau Amsterdam (2003), Goethe-Institut, Tokyo (2005), and most recently at the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, Rotterdam (2006). Their collaborations with other brands range from Adidas to Levi’s, Nike, Mikli and Droog over to the jewellery designer Bucherer.

* Condition: Very Good (only light bumping/wear, otherwise tight and clean book throughout) – All care is taken to provide accurate condition details of used books, photos available on request.

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BLESS - Celebrating Ten Years of Themelessness: N° 00 – N° 29
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The Archive as a Productive Space of Conflict
Markus Miessen, Yann Chateigné (Eds.)

Markus Miessen, Yann Chateigné (Eds.)

Contributions by Stuart Bailey, Bassam El Baroni, Thomas Bayrle, Jeremy Beaudry, Beatrice von Bismarck, Beatriz Colomina, Céline Condorelli, Mathieu Copeland, Dexter Sinister, Joseph Grima, Nav Haq, Sandi Hilal, Nikolaus Hirsch, Thomas Jefferson, Christoph Keller, Alexander Kluge, Joachim Koester, Armin Linke, Julia Moritz, Rabih Mroué, Hans Ulrich Obrist, Seth Price, Walid Raad, Alice Rawsthorn, Patricia Reed, David Reinfurt, Claire de Ribaupierre, Eyal Weizman, et al.

What are the processes that enable archives to become productive? Conventional archives tend to be defined through the content-specific accumulation of material, which conforms to an existing order or narrative. They rarely transform their structure. In contrast to this model of archival practice and preservation, the conflictual archive has an open framework in which it actively transforms itself, allowing for the creation of new and surprising relationships. Illustrating how spaces of knowledge can be devised, developed, and designed, this archive reveals itself as a space in which documents and testimonies open up a stage for productive dispute and struggle.

Exploring nontraditional archives, such as those of Harald Szeemann, Hans Ulrich Obrist, Sitterwerk, and the publishing house Merve, The Archive as a Productive Space of Conflict offers new perspectives on archival practice, interrogating whether archives need spatial permanence, and, if so, which design framework should be applied for the archive to take on more than a singular form of existence. The research project is a collaboration between the Karlsruhe University of Art and Design and the Geneva School of Art and Design (HEAD – Genève).

Copublished with Karlsruhe University of Art and Design and the Geneva School of Art and Design (HEAD – Genève)
Design by Jonas Fechner and Lisa Naujack

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Purple 6
Winter 2000-2001



Purple 6 Winter ’00 ’01
fashion, prose, special fiction, interior

A rare early issue of the iconic Purple magazine, edited by Elein Fleiss and Olivier Zahm, this wonderful early edition features work by: Richard Prince, Susan Cianciolo, Bless, Cris Moor, Lutz, Maison Martin Margiela, Hermés, Giasco Bertoli, Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons, Lars Botten, Bernhard Willhelm, Hussein Chalayan, Camille Vivier, Cosmic Wonder, Fendi, Terry Richardson, Anders Edstrom, Balenciaga, Vanina Sorrenti, Helmut Lang, Banu Cennetoglu, Veronique Branquinho, Chikashi Suzuki, Marc Jacobs, Ann-Sofie Back, Lodge Kerrigan, Mark Borthwick, Olivier Zahm, Jeff Rian, Bernard Joisten, Bruce Benderson, Andy Stillpass, Bennett Simspon, Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster, Pete Taylor, Jason Simon, Pablo Leon De La Barra, Panu Aree, Tim Griffin, Dayton Taylor, Dike Blair, Gareth James, Michael Drake, Antek Walczak, Guillaume Nez, Tom Betterton, John Kelsey, Cheryl Donegan, Mark Fishman, Ole Scheeren, Sarah Gavlak, Alix Lambert, Tan Lin, Sharon Mesmer, Sharon Mesmer, Peter Josephs, Benjamin Weismann, Jordan Davis, Fred El Bekkay, Michael Danner, Giasco Bertoli, Andreas Larsson, James Gooding, Alex Antitch, Elein Fleiss, Henry Roy, Rami Maymon, Torbjorn Rodland, Marcello Simeoni, Delphine Roque, Michael Danner, Stefan Ruiz, and many many more.

In 1992 Olivier Zahm and his partner Elein Fleiss printed the first issue of Purple Prose, a Parisian literary art zine that over the years has evolved into Purple Fashion Magazine and Purple. Soon after the birth of Purple Prose, Zahm and Fleiss created spin-off publications like les cahiers purple, Purple Sexe, Purple Fiction, and of course, Purple Fashion. Zahm aimed at fusing together his two worlds, fashion and art, in creating Purple.

* Condition: Very Good – All care is taken to provide accurate condition details of used books, photos available on request.

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Mode and Mode 2

Mode and Mode 2 ‘a publication in a publication’ features the Berlin/Paris-based fashion design practice of BLESS, Ines Kaag and Desiree Heiss, and their ongoing ‘lookbook collaborations’ project. Also featuring image contributions from Harriet Barrile, Ricarda Bigolin, Michael Bojkowski, Felix Burrichter, Tim Coster, Friedrich-Wilhelm Graf, Brad Haylock, Jared Leon and Johanna Heldebro, Thalea Michos-Vellis, Sophie Mörner, Alisa Närvänen, Virginia Overell, Manuel Raedar, Jerome Rigaud, Jason Schlabach and Annie Wu.

Mode and Mode is a periodical that addresses printed matter in fashion practice. Each issue explores experimental publishing in fashion with an interview around a print-based project — one that has critical effects to fashion as a discourse. In doing so, we reflect on the role of print and its potency to disrupt, or propel, fashion narratives.

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