Spencer Lai

HRD / CF Newsletter
Issue 1-4 set

The HRD / CF Newsletter is a periodical publication produced within the exhibition ‘Hi$h Risk Dressing / Critical Fashion’ at RMIT Design Hub. The exhibition centres on the local fashion organisation active in Melbourne between the years 1983-1993, the Fashion Design Council. The FDC (as they are often shortened to), founded by Robert Buckingham, Kate Durham and Robert Pearce, were a self―organised group set up to foster independent designers and artists dealing with fashion. Influenced by the post―punk scene of Northern fashion capitals, the FDC put on shows in clubs and venues, as well as organising exhibitions, and eventually setting up a shop serving as a platform for alternative fashion in Melbourne. Throughout their active period, the FDC were prolific self―publishers. Print collateral was central to their success as an organisation. Postcards, invites, catalogues, business cards and other ephemera were shared with members and the broader public, promoting their officialdom. Particularly significant was the FDC newsletter, designed by co-founder Robert Pearce, disseminating a manifesto as well as news and events with its members. The newsletters were ad hoc; informal in language and design but expressed the energy and creative spirit of both the FDC community and available technology.

Using the model of the FDC newsletter, the HRD / CF Newsletter is a take―away publication released each week of the exhibition program. Each of the issues is framed around an emerging aspect of the FDC captured in the exhibition ― the archive, the bar, the shop and the office ― with texts, interviews and contributions from local and international practitioners. The ‘HRD / CF Newsletter also includes facsimiles of print ephemera from the FDC archive, which was donated to the RMIT Design Archives in 1998 by co-founder Robert Buckingham. This new newsletter functions as a platform for disseminating ideas about the FDC then, and critical fashion now, allowing for new dialogues to emerge from the legacy of FDC.

Edited by Laura Gardner
Designed by Ziga Testen
Edition of 500

Contributors include: Agniezska Chabros, Annie Wu, Blake Barns/HB Peace, Christopher LG Hill, Clare Wohlnick, Jessie Kiely/Monica’s Gallery, Kate Meakin, Matthew Linde, Sasha Geyer, Winnie Ha Mitford, Bryan Collins, D&K (Ricarda Bigolin and Nella Themelios), James Deutsher, Lewis Fidock, Brighid Fitzgerald, Amanda Horowitz, Chantal Kirby, Jessie Kiely and Monica’s Gallery (Spencer Lai and Jake Swinson), Christopher LG Hill, Matthew Linde, Kate Meakin, Olivia O’Donnell, Yair Oelbaum, Virginia Overell, Sean Peoples, Joshua Petherick, Jen Shear, Flannery Silva, Adele Varcoe, Alex Vivian and more.

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HRD / CF Newsletter (4 issue set)
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HEROES – Fanfiction (Centre for Style)
Fayen d’Evie, Matthew Linde, Spencer Lai, Jake Swinson (Eds.)

Edited by Fayen d’Evie, Matthew Linde, Spencer Lai and Jake Swinson
Design by Toby Tam

Contents include a feature text “The Banquet” by Monicas’s Gallery with Jessie Kiely, and image contributions from: Adam Wood, Anna-Sophie Berger, Aurelia Guo, Brendan Morris, Bror August, Caley Feeney, Chloé Elizabeth Maratta, Claire Barrow, D&K, Dara Allen, Eric Mack, Galen Erickson thanks to Matthew Drury, Callum Hawke, Oscar Khan and Arthur Marie, George Egerton-Warbuton, Giovanna Flores, Grace Anderson, H.B. Peace, Hamishi Farah, Hana Earles, Harry Burke, Jake Levy, Jessie Kiely, Joseph Geagan, Josey Kidd-Crowe, Kate Meakin, Kulisek-Lieske, Laura Fanning, Matty Bovan, Mel Paget, Milo Conroy, Misty Pollen, Nora Slade and Peter Guffield Linden, Rafael Delacruz, Rare Candy, Richard Malone,Ruth O’Leary, Ryohei Kawanishi, Sasha Geyer, Shahan Assadourian, Sophie Hardeman, Spencer Lai, Stefan Schwartzman, and Wiley Guillot.

Initiated by 3-ply and Centre for Style, HEROES conflates the artist book and the fashion magazine. The ‘hero look’ is a term used to describe the penultimate outfit of a designer’s collection. Often the most conceptually-driven moment of the runway, the hero outfit serves as a signpost for a designer’s signature style, not quotidian wearability. For this inaugural issue of HEROES, contributors were invited to approach the act of fashion design as a narrative of fanfiction, identifying as readers and fans of their own canon to generate a character or caricature of their personal style. With timeframes restricted to a day, techniques of assemblage and improvisation were privileged, as contributors constructed visceral manifestations of subjectivity through self-fashioned hero looks.

HEROES/Fanfiction includes a feature text “The Banquet” written by Monica’s Gallery with Jessie Kiely, that opens: “ACT I. It was within the candle-lit caverns beneath the wondrous castle bestowed upon The Fat Baron Oörif that the banquet took place. The air thick with magic…” Appropriating the fanfiction trope as a codified lookbook, the text weaves elaborate descriptions of characters and fantastical sub-plots, over the course of a banquet hosted for fifteen guests by a former trade tycoon, within his castle of soft provincial feel. Spiralling through philosophical, intersubjective and social commentary, this parallel universe lookbook interlaces acute reflections on meta-trends, personal freedoms and nested human artefacts.

Edition of 1000

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9th Berlin Biennale for Contemporary Art
The Present in Drag

 


The Present in Drag is published as a companion volume to the 9th Berlin Biennale for Contemporary Art, which was curated by New York collective DIS. Providing information on the works shown in the exhibition, it also includes contributions by Roe Ethridge, Simon und Daniel Fujiwara, Boris Groys, Katja Novitskova, Chus Martinez, Bjarne Melgaard, Sean Patrick Monahan, Sabine Reitmaier, McKenzie Wark, and others.
The 9th Berlin Biennale for Contemporary Art features the work and contributions of: 69, Antoni Abad, Halil Altindere, Ei Arakawa (in collaboration with Dan Poston, Stefan Tcherepnin), Korakrit Arunanondchai/Alex Gvojic, atelier le balto, Armen Avanessian/Alexander Martos (in collaboration with Christopher Roth), åyr, Will Benedict, Julien Ceccaldi, Centre for Style
(in collaboration with Anna-Sophie Berger; Burkhard Beschow & Anne Fellner; Max Brand; Rare Candy with Alden Epp, Spencer Lai, Natasha Madden, Misty Pollen, Ander Rennick & Amber Wright; Susan Cianciolo; Marlie Mul; Liam Osborne; H.B. Peace & Kate Meakin; Joshua Petherick; Lin May Saeed; Eirik Sæther), Brody Condon, CUSS Group (in collaboration with ANGEL-HO, FAKA, Megan Mace, NTU), Kathleen Daniel, Debora Delmar Corp., Simon Denny with Linda Kantchev, Cécile B. Evans, Nicolás Fernández, Lizzie Fitch/Ryan Trecartin, Simon Fujiwara, GCC, GUAN Xiao, Calla Henkel/Max Pitegoff, Camille Henrot, Yngve Holen, Alexa Karolinski/Ingo Niermann, Kartenrecht, Josh Kline, Korpys/Löffler, Nik Kosmas, M/L Artspace, Shawn Maximo, Ashland Mines, Katja Novitskova, Trevor Paglen/Jacob Appelbaum, Juan Sebastián Peláez, Adrian Piper, Alexandra Pirici, Josephine Pryde, Puppies Puppies, Babak Radboy, Jon Rafman, Timur Si-Qin, Lucie Stahl, Hito Steyerl, TELFAR, Christopher Kulendran Thomas, Wu Tsang, Anna Uddenberg, Amalia Ulman, Anne de Vries, Abu Hajar, Halil Altindere, Math Bass, Lizzi Bougatsos & Brian DeGraw, Elysia Crampton, Lizzie Fitch/Ryan Trecartin, Isa Genzken, Juliana Huxtable, Kelela, Nguzunguzu, PATRICIA (Patricia Satterwhite, Jacolby Satterwhite, Nick Weiss), Adrian Piper, Fatima Al Qadiri, Carles Santos, Hito Steyerl, Total Freedom, Amalia Ulman, Antoni Abad, åyr/Rem Koolhaas/Hans Ulrich Obrist, Kathleen Daniel, Cécile B. Evans and Andrew Snyder-Beattie, Oleg Fonaryov and Oleksiy Radynski, Simon & Daniel Fujiwara, GCC, Boris Groys, Rob Horning, Izabella Kaminska and Simon Denny, Chus Martínez, Meredith Meredith, Sean Monahan, New Scenario, Ingo Niermann, Alexandra Pirici, Puppies Puppies, Sean Raspet, Natasha Stagg, Amalia Ulman, Sencer Vardarman, Eduardo Viveiros de Castro and Déborah Danowski in conversation with Michelle Sommer and Daniel Steegmann Mangrané, McKenzie Wark, Will Benedict, Dora Budor, Cao Fei, Roe Ethridge, Hood by Air, Bjarne Melgaard, Simon Dybbroe Møller, Zanele Muholi, Johannes Paul Raether, Torbjørn Rødland, Akeem Smith, Martine Syms, Stewart Uoo, Nina Cristante, Sabine Gottfried, Nik Kosmas, Lesley Moon, Helga Wretman, Frank Benson, Asger Carlsen, DIS, Casey Jane Ellison, Roe Ethridge, Avena Gallagher, Saemundur Thor Helgason, Tilman Hornig, Benjamin Alexander Huseby, Chris Kraus, Bjarne Melgaard, Jason Nocito, Babak Radboy, Sean Raspet, Sabine Reitmaier, Aaron David Ross, Andrew Norman Wilson, Anonymous, Anonymous, Anonymous and others.

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9th Berlin Biennale for Contemporary Art
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