Mode and Mode, Melbourne

HRD / CF Newsletter
Issue 1-4 set

The HRD / CF Newsletter is a periodical publication produced within the exhibition ‘Hi$h Risk Dressing / Critical Fashion’ at RMIT Design Hub. The exhibition centres on the local fashion organisation active in Melbourne between the years 1983-1993, the Fashion Design Council. The FDC (as they are often shortened to), founded by Robert Buckingham, Kate Durham and Robert Pearce, were a self―organised group set up to foster independent designers and artists dealing with fashion. Influenced by the post―punk scene of Northern fashion capitals, the FDC put on shows in clubs and venues, as well as organising exhibitions, and eventually setting up a shop serving as a platform for alternative fashion in Melbourne. Throughout their active period, the FDC were prolific self―publishers. Print collateral was central to their success as an organisation. Postcards, invites, catalogues, business cards and other ephemera were shared with members and the broader public, promoting their officialdom. Particularly significant was the FDC newsletter, designed by co-founder Robert Pearce, disseminating a manifesto as well as news and events with its members. The newsletters were ad hoc; informal in language and design but expressed the energy and creative spirit of both the FDC community and available technology.

Using the model of the FDC newsletter, the HRD / CF Newsletter is a take―away publication released each week of the exhibition program. Each of the issues is framed around an emerging aspect of the FDC captured in the exhibition ― the archive, the bar, the shop and the office ― with texts, interviews and contributions from local and international practitioners. The ‘HRD / CF Newsletter also includes facsimiles of print ephemera from the FDC archive, which was donated to the RMIT Design Archives in 1998 by co-founder Robert Buckingham. This new newsletter functions as a platform for disseminating ideas about the FDC then, and critical fashion now, allowing for new dialogues to emerge from the legacy of FDC.

Edited by Laura Gardner
Designed by Ziga Testen
Edition of 500

Contributors include: Agniezska Chabros, Annie Wu, Blake Barns/HB Peace, Christopher LG Hill, Clare Wohlnick, Jessie Kiely/Monica’s Gallery, Kate Meakin, Matthew Linde, Sasha Geyer, Winnie Ha Mitford, Bryan Collins, D&K (Ricarda Bigolin and Nella Themelios), James Deutsher, Lewis Fidock, Brighid Fitzgerald, Amanda Horowitz, Chantal Kirby, Jessie Kiely and Monica’s Gallery (Spencer Lai and Jake Swinson), Christopher LG Hill, Matthew Linde, Kate Meakin, Olivia O’Donnell, Yair Oelbaum, Virginia Overell, Sean Peoples, Joshua Petherick, Jen Shear, Flannery Silva, Adele Varcoe, Alex Vivian and more.

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HRD / CF Newsletter (4 issue set)
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Mode and Mode 1
'front, back and side'


Mode and Mode
 1 ‘front, back and side’ features Shahan Assadourian, Tumblrer and experimental fashion archivist, founder of the online magazine scan archive, Archivings.net

Mode and Mode is a periodical that addresses printed matter in fashion practice. Each issue explores experimental publishing in fashion with an interview around a print-based project — one that has critical effects to fashion as a discourse. In doing so, we reflect on the role of print and its potency to disrupt, or propel, fashion narratives.

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Mode and Mode 1 : 'front, back and side'
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Mode and Mode 2

Mode and Mode 2 ‘a publication in a publication’ features the Berlin/Paris-based fashion design practice of BLESS, Ines Kaag and Desiree Heiss, and their ongoing ‘lookbook collaborations’ project. Also featuring image contributions from Harriet Barrile, Ricarda Bigolin, Michael Bojkowski, Felix Burrichter, Tim Coster, Friedrich-Wilhelm Graf, Brad Haylock, Jared Leon and Johanna Heldebro, Thalea Michos-Vellis, Sophie Mörner, Alisa Närvänen, Virginia Overell, Manuel Raedar, Jerome Rigaud, Jason Schlabach and Annie Wu.

Mode and Mode is a periodical that addresses printed matter in fashion practice. Each issue explores experimental publishing in fashion with an interview around a print-based project — one that has critical effects to fashion as a discourse. In doing so, we reflect on the role of print and its potency to disrupt, or propel, fashion narratives.

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Mode and Mode 2 : BLESS
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Mode and Mode 3
'Seth Shapiro'


Mode and Mode
 3 ‘Seth Shapiro’ looks at the designer’s experimental lookbooks Ultimate Departure (2000) and A Dinner Date with Chez Woodstock and Other Fairytales of American Manufacturing (2001). 

Mode and Mode is a periodical that addresses printed matter in fashion practice. Each issue explores experimental publishing in fashion with an interview around a print-based project — one that has critical effects to fashion as a discourse. In doing so, we reflect on the role of print and its potency to disrupt, or propel, fashion narratives.

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Mode and Mode 3 : Seth Shapiro
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